N
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Nail Plates - Purpose: Protects wiring from nails and screws when
holes in studs are less than 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the stud.
Typical Applications: Use
whenever cables or flexible conduit are notched into framing or run through holes too
close to the edge.
What to Look for: Plate
must be at least 1/16 inch thick.
Nail Sizes -
Nails are specified by a confusing "penny"
designation (abbreviated as "d"). This naming system derives indirectly from
pounds per hundred nails-the way nails were once sold. The larger the nail, the greater
the weight per hundred. Carpenters refer to a 10d nail as a"10 penny" nail.
National Electrical Code (NEC) -
Published by the National Fire Protection
Association (a private, non-profit organization), the NEC sets out rules for safe
electrical installations. Though not law in itself, the NEC serves as the basis for just
about all local and state electrical codes. The Canadian Electrical Code is the Canadian
counterpart of the NEC and differs from it in some particulars.
Needle-Nose Pliers - Purpose: Tight squeezes, wire cutting.
When to Use: Bending wire
to wrap a terminal.
What to Look for: Jaws and
cutting blades should meet evenly. Hold them up to light. A diagonal chink of light coming
though indicates poor quality.
Neutral -
After current expends its energy, it is said to be neutral.
Neutral wires carry current back to the service panel and the earth. Neutral wires are
always clad in white insulation. Also see hot and ground.
New Work Box - Other Names: Nail-on box
Purpose: For interior
switches and receptacles with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications: Open
wood framing before drywall is installed.
Common Sizes: Single gang,
right, for one device, and double gang, left, for two devices.
Also Available: Three- to
six-gang boxes sold by electrical supply houses. Larger four-square boxes are handy for
use with a plaster ring or as a junction box.
New Work Lighting Boxes - Other Names: Nail-On Box.
Purpose: Mounting interior
lights wired with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications:
Ceilings with exposed wood joists.
Nipple -
A piece of threaded steel or brass pipe, generally a foot or
less in length. Close nipples, which are as short as 11/2 inches, are threaded from one
end to the other. Nipples accept female fittings at each end.
No-Hub Coupler - Other Names: Hubless Coupler.
Purpose: This is the magic
item that makes it possible for ordinary people to use ABS or PVC pipe to extend or repair
a cast-iron DWV system.
Comments: The coupler
consists of a neoprene sleeve with a stainless-steel jacket and a pair of hose clamps. To
use it, you just slip one end of each of the pipes to be joined into the coupler and
tighten the clamps. That's all there is to it. When these first appeared, veteran plumbers
thought it would be the end of their trade. Now they all use them.
Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable (NM)
- Other Names: Romex.
Purpose: Interior wiring.
Typical Applications:
Wherever allowed by local electrical codes; in buildings three stories or less; with
plastic or metal boxes.
Comments: NM cable with
plastic boxes is the least expensive cable system and the easiest to install. If you
staple cable within 8 inches of a plastic box, you aren't required to use connectors. With
metal boxes, use snap-in plastic connectors.
Also Available:
Water-resistant (type NMC) cable for laundry rooms and basements where moisture may be
present; waterproof (type UF--underground feeder) cable for outdoor burial, if permitted.
Caution: Screws and nails
driven in framing can penetrate NM cable. Hammer nail plates over a cable whenever it lies
within 11/4 inches from the edge of the framing.
Number of Coats (of paint) - When you select the number of coats, include one
for primer if you intend to use it. When you check the Unpainted Walls box, the program
assumes that you will use primer on the first coat and cover only 250 sq. ft. per gallon.
Nut Driver - Purpose: Tightening and loosening small nuts and bolts.
Comments: Despite the
name, you'll probably find that you drive more bolts and screws with this tool. If you're
working with a lot of no-hub couplers in a tight space, get a 5/16-inch nut driver-even
though a screwdriver or adjustable wrench will also work. Since the nut driver doesn't
slip off the bolt, it can save you time, frustration and skinned knuckles.
O
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O-Rings - Purpose: Seals valve parts
Comments: It's tough to
determine O-ring sizes, so always take the old one with you when you go to the store.
Removal tools, called O-ring picks, are available, but you can use the blade of a pocket
knife if you're careful.
The Pros Say: When you
replace O-rings, coat them slightly with plumber's grease. They will slip on better, and
the lubricant helps them last longer.
Octagonal Lighting Box
Other Names: O-Box or Four-O box.
Purpose: Mounting interior
lights, wired with non-metallic cable or armored cable.
Typical Applications:
Ceilings with exposed wood joists.
Off-Grade Decks -
Decks that stand 30 inches or more off the ground.
Offset Driver - Other Names: Wiggly Driver, Speed Driver.
When to Use: Great for
tightening device-mounting screws.
Comments: This is the poor
man's cordless driver for making up electrical boxes. Sold in electrical supply houses,
not in most hardware stores.
Offset Hanger Bar - This
device enables you to flush-mount an electrical box in a plaster-and-lath ceiling. You
remove a strip of lath between two joists and screw the ends of the bar to the joists.
Fasten the box to the center of the bar. It is offset to accommodate the thickness of the
box.
Oil-Based Paints - Old
linseed oil paints (the original "oil" paint) are largely obsolete. Now these
paints are mostly made with alkyd and other synthetic resins. Nevertheless, the terms are
used interchangeably throughout the trade.
Old Work Device Boxes - Other Names: Remodel Box, Cut-In Box.
Purpose: Mounting switches
and receptacles with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications:
Adding switches or receptacles in finished walls.
Also Available: Two-gang
boxes add a pair of devices to a finished wall.
Old Work Lighting Boxes - Other Names: Remodel box, cut-in box.
Purpose: Mounting interior
lights with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications:
Adding lights in finished ceilings.
What to Look for: Make
sure the metal flange holds the box securely against the drywall or plaster.
Comments: For heavy light
fixtures, install wood blocking between the joists to hold the weight, or use a fan
support brace.
On Center
- As measured from the center of the post (rather than the
distance between sides).
Open Time - The working time after an adhesive has been applied, but
before the pieces must be assembled.
Organic Matter -
Decomposed plant or animal matter that supplies nutrients to
plants. Good sources include homemade compost, nitrogen-fortified sawdust, aged steer
manure, sphagnum peat moss and leaf mold.
Outlet -
Any point in a circuit where power is consumed or controlled.
Receptacles, light fixtures and switches are installed at these outlets.
Overflow Tube - Prevents the toilet tank from overflowing. The overflow
tube drains into the toilet bowl so that if the fill valve sticks open, your bathroom
doesn't wind up looking like a flood plain in springtime.
Overload -
When a circuit is carrying more amperage than it was designed
to handle, wires heat up, blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker.
P-Q
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Packing Nut - Large, often decorative, nut located directly beneath the
handle of a faucet. It caps the faucet valve and compresses the packing washer against the
valve stem to create a watertight assembly.
Pancake Lighting Box - Purpose: Mounting light fixtures.
Typical Applications: When
you retrofit wiring lights in a plaster ceiling, it's often easier to mount a pancake box
on top of the lath than to cut the lath for a full-depth lighting box.
Comments: Use a 4-inch
pancake with one 14-gauge cable, only. Three-inch diameter pancake boxes are not permitted
by most localities because they don't have sufficient volume.
PAR-Lamps -
A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp has a heavy glass lens
that focuses the light. This makes it suitable for outdoor as well as indoor use.
PAR-lamps come in both incandescent and halogen versions. As with R-lamps, the number
indicates the wattage.
Parting Strip -
On a double-hung window, the wooden strip that separates the
two sashes. Also called parting bead.
Path Lighting -
It doesn't take a lot of light to provide a welcoming glow and
a measure of safety along your entry walk. This low-voltage, Malibu-style light spikes
into the ground for easy installation. The system is often sold as a kit that includes a
transformer, a half-dozen or so lights and connecting wires.
Pavers -
Flat masonry units resembling thick tiles, used for paving.
Peeler Core -
The cylindrical remainder of a log that has been turned on a
giant lathe to "peel" plywood veneer. Often sold at landscape-supply centers.
Peeling and Blistering -
Peeling results from moisture in the wood trying to escape.
Moisture comes through walls that do not have a proper vapor barrier. In new homes, the
moisture may come from improperly dried framing or siding. Siding painted too soon after a
rainfall is also subject to peeling and blistering.
Solution: Remove the finish to bare wood, and allow the siding to dry. Prime
and paint.
Blisters are often caused when paint is applied in direct sunlight. They
form when the solvent tries to evaporate through a dried film. Water-reducible paints can
also trap moisture before they dry. If, however, bare wood shows underneath the blisters,
the problem is likely due to moisture. (See peeling, above.)
Solution: Scrape off blisters, sand, prime and paint.
Peephole Clamps -
A peephole clamp secures armored cable to electrical boxes.
Each clamp has an opening so an electrical inspector can verify that you've installed an
anti-short bushing at every connection.
Penetrating Oil -
Lubricant that helps dissolve rust. Common brands are WD-40
and Liquid Wrench.
pH -
A measure of acidity or alkalinity, on a scale of 0 (highly
acid) to 14 (highly alkaline). Soil pH affects how well plants absorb nutrients. At the
wrong pH, nutrients may be there but plants can't use them. Most plants do best within a
pH range of 5.5 to 7.5; for many, a pH of 6.5 is ideal.
Phone Wire -
You only need one 24- or 26-gauge wire for each phone, but you
may as well run two or four pairs for later use. You may want to add a second line for
phone, fax or modem. The same wires can handle computer networks, thermostats and other
low-voltage signals.
Photoelectric Detectors -
Photoelectric units have a beam of light aimed at a photocell.
Smoke blocks the light, which triggers the alarm. Photoelectric smoke detectors respond
well to slow-burning, smoldering fires in furniture, bedding and draperies. Most
photoelectric units require 120 volts AC.
Dirty, high-pollution or high-particle environments-such as a kitchen,
workshop or garage-can coat the photocell and trigger a false alarm. Dust particles from
ink jet printers can also block the beam. Install photoelectric detectors away from
heating and air conditioning vents.
Photoelectric Switch - Other Names: Electric eye.
Purpose: Turns light on at
dusk, turns it off at dawn.
Typical Applications:
Porch lights.
Comments: Heavily shaded
locations trick these switches into staying on too long. Look for sensitivity adjustments
and models that allow you to point their eyes to the light.
Pigtail -
Short lengths of wire spliced with a wire connector.
Pilaster -
A column of concrete or masonry used to reinforce intervening
panels and prevent them from tipping.
Pipe Insulation -
These slitted foam sleeves fit over your hot-water pipes to reduce
radiant-heat loss from the walls of the tubing-and save money and energy. Other types
include fiberglass insulation you wrap onto pipes, spiral-fashion, and tape in place.
Pipe Wrench - Other Names: Monkey Wrench
Purpose: Tightening and
loosening threaded pipe connections.
Comments: Use pipe
wrenches in pairs, one to hold and one to turn the pipe or fitting.
What to Look for: The
teeth on cheaper wrenches are often less sharp when new and wear out faster. Consider a
lighter, aluminum handled version if you're buying a wrench longer than 12 inches.
Pipe-Joint Compound - Other Names: Pipe Dope
Purpose: Sealing pipe
threads.
Comments: Brush this
sticky paste on the male threads before you connect fittings in galvanized-steel and
black-iron pipe system-or use Teflon pipe tape. Both work fine, although some plumbers
consider joint compound to be the more professional solution. Compound is your only choice
when you can't reach the male fitting in a joint-as sometimes happens inside walls.
Plaster Ears - Other Names: Mouse traps, box supports.
Purpose: Holds a retrofit
box in drywall or plaster wall.
Typical Applications: When
adding a box in a finished wall.
Comments: Slip the long
edge of the metal plate behind the lath or drywall, along either side of the box. Bend the
short tabs into the box to clamp it against the back of the wall.
Disadvantages: Ears are
difficult to tighten effectively and may loosen over time. Use only for switches since
they don't receive the same stress as receptacles.
Plaster Rings - Other Names: Mud Rings, Switch Rings.
Purpose: Adapts
four-square boxes to two-gang or single-gang devices, left and right, or to light
fixtures, center. Also used to bring the face of the box out flush to finished wall
surface.
Typical Applications: Use
when drywall is attached over old plaster walls or when tile is added. Also used to change
from two devices to one, one to two, or to mount a light in a square box.
What to Look for: Made in
1/4- to 2-inch depths to match wall thickness.
Plastic Boxes -
Plastic boxes are less expensive than metal ones and easier to
install, since you don't need cable clamps to connect properly stapled non-metallic cable
to the box. Plastic boxes are actually more fire-resistant than metal boxes. They are
UL-rated for two hours of protection against fire.
Plastic Pipe Cutter - Purpose: Making clean, quick cuts in PVC plastic pipe.
Comments: Use it for
projects like sprinkler systems when you have to make a lot of cuts. Since it makes
perfect 90-degree, burr-free cuts, it saves much time and aggravation compared to a saw
and file.
Plat Map -
A legal document that shows the boundaries and easements of
your property, as determined by a survey.
Plug Auger -
A bit that attaches to an electric drill to bore properly
sized holes for plugs.
Plugs -
Small pieces of sod.
Plumber's Grease - Other Names: Valve grease
Purpose: Lubricates faucet
stems and O-rings.
Comments: Never substitute
petroleum jelly, it can harm rubber over time. Heat-resistant valve grease also helps seal
stove valves.
Plumber's Tape - Other Names: Pipe Strap
Purpose: To make pipe
support straps.
Comments: Cut the
galvanized-steel strapping with tin snips. Copper and plastic versions of this perforated
tape are available for use with those materials.
Plunger - Other
Names: Force Cup, Plumber's Helper, Plumber's Friend
Purpose: Clearing
obstructions from sink drains and toilets.
Comments: This familiar
tool provides the classic, low-tech solution for stopped-up lines. The bulb-type, shown,
has an extendible collar that makes a better seal in toilets and wide sink drains. For
other drains, fold the collar up, and the tool works just like a conventional plunger.
When it doesn't work, you'll need to move on to a closet auger, snake, or power auger.
Pneumatic - Air-driven.
Points -
Handsaws are measured in point sizes which correspond to teeth per inch.
The higher the number, the finer (and slower) the cut.
Polarity -
Look closely at a new receptacle and you'll notice that
its left and right slots are different sizes. The taller slot carries neutral current; the
shorter one is hot. Plugs should be wired accordingly. If the wires are reversed, a
polarized appliance could give you a shock.
Post Hole Auger - Post hole diggers make neat, cylindrical holes in the soil for
fence posts and footings. Hand-operated diggers have parallel wooden handles and a pair of
curved blades.
If you need to dig a lot of holes or deep footings below frost line,
rent a gas-driven post hole auger, top. The engine is mounted between handles above a
large spiral bit. A single person can operate a small auger. It takes two people to run
the larger unit.
Pouring and Finishing Concrete -
After you pour concrete, the next step is to
level and finish the surface before it dries. A careful finish is especially important for
visible flatwork such as patios and sidewalks, less so for concrete that will be hidden
under brick or stone. Follow these steps:
Level the
surface by drawing the edge of a straight board along the top of the forms in a
back-and-forth sawing motion. This smoothes out the bumps and low spots.
On concrete that will remain exposed, such as sidewalks or
patios, you'll need to neaten the edges and guide the cracking that will occur as the
concrete expands and contracts. First, butt and run a steel edging tool against the forms
to round over the edges. Next, use a jointer at intervals to score the concrete with
grooves.
Use a wood float to further smooth the concrete after water
has come to the surface and evaporated. Wood floats give a coarse finish good for traction
on exterior surfaces. For a dense, hard, smooth surface, finish the concrete with a
concrete trowel.
Other surfaces include
Broom finish
Sand
Rock salt
Seeded aggregate
Spray the surface with water and cover it with plastic
sheeting to keep it damp. Remove the plastic after 3 days. After 5 days, the concrete has
reached 90 percent of maximum hardness.
Power Line Carrier
- A remote-control device that
sends and receives coded signals over household wiring. With PLCs you can control lights
and appliances throughout the house.
Power Mixer -
A tilted drum with a motorized blade or spiral that mixes
mortar. Run it for 3 to 5 minutes to thoroughly combine the materials. Longer mixing
weakens mortar. Compacting the base: To prevent
paved surfaces from settling and cracking later, you'll need to compact the soil and base
beneath them before you build.
First, moisten the graded soil-but not so it's soggy. Compact small
areas with the end of a 4-by-4 or run a vibratory rammer over them. For large areas, use a
vibratory plate or a vibratory roller.
Also use these tools to compact a gravel base, except on pea gravel,
which compacts naturally.
If the project calls for a sand base, wet and screed the sand until it's
perfectly flat and densely packed. For best results, screed it several times.
Pressure Gauge - Purpose: To measure water pressure in residential plumbing.
Comments: Threads on to a
hose bibb by hand. This one costs less than $5.00.
Pressure-Treated Lumber -
Lumber that is impregnated under pressure with chemicals that
inhibit the growth of mold and prevent rot. Pressure-treated lumber is particularly useful
for situations where wood comes in contact with the ground or concrete, and for numerous
outdoor building projects.
Pressure Washer - Other Names: Power washer.
Purpose: Pressure washers
make quick work of light-duty cleaning tasks such as washing cars, decks, siding and
driveways. They blast mildew off siding and decks to help restore the original color. They
deep-clean exterior siding for repainting, and they scour mold from sidewalks, patios and
walls.
When to Use: Gas-powered
rental units, which operate at about 2,500 pounds per square inch, handle heavy-duty tasks
such as paint removal. Homeowner's models, under 1,000 pounds per square inch, help with
light-duty cleaning.
Programmable Timer Switch - Purpose: Turns lights on and off according to a programmable
schedule.
Typical Applications: For
security, to make it appear you're at home; for convenience, to turn on outdoor lighting
before you come home. You can also rig up plug-in models to operate the TV and radio when
you're away to create a lived-in illusion.
Pulling El -
A 90-degree conduit body. In building trade lingo, any right
angle, elbow fitting is termed an "el."
Push Nuts - Purpose: Splices up to four solid wires.
Typical Applications:
Connecting ground wires, or splicing hot wires or neutral wires inside a wiring box. DO
NOT use push nuts to splice wires outside of boxes.
Comments: Use push nuts
anywhere wire connectors are permitted. They cost a bit more, but you don't have to twist
them on-your wrist will appreciate it. You can test for hot wires without removing push
nuts. They have small holes in their ends to fit the probe of your voltage tester.
PVC Cement -
A clear, syrupy adhesive usually sold for joining white PVC
(polyvinyl chloride) pipe.
PVC Pipe - Purpose: This familiar white plastic pipe is used mostly for
irrigation systems. In large sizes, it's now widely accepted for DWV systems.
Comments: It's likely that
your local code won't permit PVC plastic pipe for supply lines inside your house, although
it may allow a related type, CPVC pipe. Like all plastic pipe, it's easy to cut and easy
to join with special pipe cement.
Quartz Halide Floodlights - One of several energy-efficient alternatives to standard
incandescent lighting outside your home. The fixtures do cost more initially (and
replacement lamps do too), but if you want to provide a lot of bright light for many hours
each night, these will save you money in the long run. 300- and 500-watt lamps are
commonly sold as work lights. Mount them on weatherproof wiring boxes with standard
1/2-inch threaded holes.
Quick-Connect Plugs -
Light-duty replacement plugs. To install, snip off the old
plug and insert the old cord into the new plug, according to package directions. Prongs
inside the plug pierce the insulation when you close the plug (or a lever on top of it)
eliminating any need to strip the wires.
R
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R-Lamps - The R stands for reflector, an interior coating of aluminum
that reflects light to the front of the bulb. Some fixtures, notably recessed types, trap
light inside. Reflector lamps reduce this loss by projecting light out of the fixture and
into the room. In these fixtures, a 50-watt R-lamp provides equivalent lighting and uses
less energy than a 100-watt standard incandescent bulb. The number after the R is the
bulb's wattage.
Rabbet -
A rectangular groove in the edge of the sash.
Radiant Heat -
Electromagnetic waves traveling in straight lines.
Rafters -
Rafters are the roof-framing members that provide support for
sheathing and roofing.
Rebar -
Short for "reinforcing bar". This steel bar is
embedded in concrete and masonry to strengthen it. Sold in 20-foot lengths and in various
diameters.
Rebar Bender -
A rebar also has a built-in bender. With the handle up, lay
the rebar between three heavy-duty pins on the bender's head, then push down the handle to
bend the rebar. You can bend to any angle up to 90 degrees.
Receptacle Cover
- This cover fits standard duplex
receptacles. These covers are also used to finish stack switches and
switch/receptacle combinations.
Receptacle Tester
Other Names: Polarity Tester.
Purpose: Tests three-hole
120-volt receptacles for power, polarity and grounding.
When to Use: After you've
turned on the power to new receptacles or whenever you want to inspect an existing
installation.
Also Available: A similar
tester works on receptacles only.
Receptacles -
Commonly referred to as plugs, outlets or sockets.
Standard household receptacles come in white, ivory and brown. Decorator lines have more
colors. For heavy-duty appliances, get a receptacle rated for the proper amperage.
Recessed Lighting -
These unobtrusive lights cost between $15 and $35 for the
basic can. Each requires some sort of decorative trim ring. Some models include the ring.
If you want to use compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) in a recessed light, be sure to get a
model designed for it. CFLs require a different reflector to push their light down
efficiently. With incandescent models, use reflector spots or floods.
Reciprocating Saw - Other Names: Sawzall.
Purpose: Rough-cutting
wood and metal.
When to Use: This tool is
indispensable for remodeling. It's great for cutting notches for pipe or cable and
openings in existing walls when nothing else seems to fit.
What to Look for: Though
you probably won't have much choice at a rental yard, try to get a saw that lets you mount
the blade with the teeth up or down. This feature may make a difference in a tight spot. A
variable-speed switch offers more control when cutting.
Comments: The replaceable
blades you'll need will probably cost less at a hardware store or home center than at the
rental yard. Choose bi-metal blades for maximum wear.
Reducers: Bells and Bushings - Purpose: Transitions between different diameters of pipe
Examples include:
No-hub mission coupling, to join dissimilar cast-iron pipe sizes.
PVC bushing to join 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch pipes.
ABS reduction wye, fitted with a 4-by 2-inch bushing.
Copper reducing tee.
Threaded Reduction fittings: bell reducer, has female threads for two unlike nipples;
bushing has male thread for a large fitting and female thread for a smaller nipple coming
out.
Resistance -
All materials, including wires, hamper the flow of electricity
to some extent, converting some of the energy in the current to heat.
Resistant to Heavy Wear -
For surfaces subjected to heavy wear such as floors,
furniture, countertops and other surfaces that are subject to heavy use.
Resistant to Scrubbing -
Paints able to withstand abrasion and household cleansers and
detergents.
Right-Angle Clamp -
Right-angle clamps exit a wiring box at 90 degrees. Use these
when you don't have room to bend armored cable into place.
Right-Angle Drill - Purpose: Drilling holes in tight places.
When to Use: Great for
drilling cable pathways between studs and joists.
What to Look for: Be sure
the drill you rent includes a chuck key and a wrench for adjusting the right angle head.
An adjustable side-handle should be included, too.
Comments: You might be
able to drill all your cable paths with a 3/8-inch VSR drill, but a right-angle drill has
far more power and can get into tight spots with ease. Rent it if you have lots of
drilling to do and can organize your work to get it all done in one day.
Rigid Metal Conduit - Purpose: Use for outdoor wiring that may be exposed to damage
(lawnmowers and cars are two common hazards).
Typical Applications: In
trenches shallower than 18 inches, or as the first length of conduit leading into plastic
conduit in a trench.
Comments: Rigid uses two
kinds of connectors: threaded and threadless compression fittings. Threaded connections
are similar to threaded plumbing pipe. You have to either plan carefully and use only
ready-made parts or rent cutting and threading tools to make custom lengths. Threadless
compression fittings slip over cut pipe and form a waterproof seal when tightened. Use
pre-bent 45-degree and 90-degree sections to change direction.
Rigid Plastic Conduit - Purpose: Underground wiring.
Typical Applications:
Outdoor lighting, buried service to outbuildings.
What to Look for: Do not
confuse this with white PVC plumbing pipe. Use Schedule 40 pipe for residential work.
Schedule 80 is thicker and may be required for commercial applications. Use an approved
glue for the non-threaded connections.
Comments: Because it's far
more flexible than rigid metal conduit, and easier to cut and join, plastic is much easier
to install. The parts are less expensive, too. Cut plastic conduit with a hacksaw and
attach couplings and fittings with glue.
Do not bury plastic less than 18 inches deep. Use a pre-bent 90-degree
section of rigid metal conduit above ground to reach the bottom of the trench, then use an
adapter fitting to the rigid plastic. Requires a ground wire in the conduit.
Ring Latch
- A latch you open by pivoting a ring off the end of a
horizontal bar.
Ring-Shanked Nail - A nail with raised edges along its shank--like threads
in a screw--that make it hard to pull out.
Ripping - Cutting in line with wood grain; to rip a board is to
cut along its length.
Rise - The vertical distance from the bottom to the top of a
slope or step.
Riser - The vertical part of a step.
Rock Salt - Rock salt is lightly and evenly broadcast, then troweled into
a surface. The salt dissolves after the surface is lightly washed and leaves pocks or
voids in the surface.
Roller - A metal or plastic drum you fill with water and roll
over the lawn to tamp down soil or newly planted grass.
Roll
Size - Wallpaper is sold in two sizes:
American rolls cover 36 sq. ft., European rolls cover 28 sq. ft.
Roof Sheathing - Finish roofing materials are applied on top of roof
sheathing, which serves to provide a flat, sound nailing base. Sheathing also strengthens
your roof's structure. Common sheathing materials include plywood, oriented strand board
(OSB), wood shingles, and 1-by-6's.
Roofing Felt - Also called "underlayment," roofing felt is a
thick, black, asphalt-impregnated, paper-like material. On your roof it provides an
additional rain barrier. It is impervious enough to block out and shed rain but also
porous enough to allow moisture and condensation to escape from your attic.
Rubber mallet - A mallet with a rubber or plastic head, used to tap
stones or masonry into place without chipping them.
Run - The horizontal distance covered by a slope.
Runoff - Rainwater or snow melt that runs over the ground instead
of soaking in. It runs off because the ground is too steep, too hard, or too saturated
with water.
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