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Glossary - N-R
 

 

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Nail Plates - Purpose: Protects wiring from nails and screws when holes in studs are less than 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the stud.
Typical Applications: Use whenever cables or flexible conduit are notched into framing or run through holes too close to the edge.
What to Look for: Plate must be at least 1/16 inch thick.

Nail Sizes -  Nails are specified by a confusing "penny" designation (abbreviated as "d"). This naming system derives indirectly from pounds per hundred nails-the way nails were once sold. The larger the nail, the greater the weight per hundred. Carpenters refer to a 10d nail as a"10 penny" nail.

National Electrical Code (NEC) -  Published by the National Fire Protection Association (a private, non-profit organization), the NEC sets out rules for safe electrical installations. Though not law in itself, the NEC serves as the basis for just about all local and state electrical codes. The Canadian Electrical Code is the Canadian counterpart of the NEC and differs from it in some particulars.

Needle-Nose Pliers - Purpose: Tight squeezes, wire cutting.
When to Use: Bending wire to wrap a terminal.
What to Look for: Jaws and cutting blades should meet evenly. Hold them up to light. A diagonal chink of light coming though indicates poor quality.

Neutral -  After current expends its energy, it is said to be neutral. Neutral wires carry current back to the service panel and the earth. Neutral wires are always clad in white insulation. Also see hot and ground.

New Work Box - Other Names: Nail-on box
Purpose: For interior switches and receptacles with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications: Open wood framing before drywall is installed.
Common Sizes: Single gang, right, for one device, and double gang, left, for two devices.
Also Available: Three- to six-gang boxes sold by electrical supply houses. Larger four-square boxes are handy for use with a plaster ring or as a junction box.

New Work Lighting Boxes - Other Names: Nail-On Box.
Purpose: Mounting interior lights wired with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications: Ceilings with exposed wood joists.

Nipple -  A piece of threaded steel or brass pipe, generally a foot or less in length. Close nipples, which are as short as 11/2 inches, are threaded from one end to the other. Nipples accept female fittings at each end.

No-Hub Coupler - Other Names: Hubless Coupler.
Purpose: This is the magic item that makes it possible for ordinary people to use ABS or PVC pipe to extend or repair a cast-iron DWV system.
Comments: The coupler consists of a neoprene sleeve with a stainless-steel jacket and a pair of hose clamps. To use it, you just slip one end of each of the pipes to be joined into the coupler and tighten the clamps. That's all there is to it. When these first appeared, veteran plumbers thought it would be the end of their trade. Now they all use them.

Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable (NM) - Other Names: Romex.
Purpose: Interior wiring.
Typical Applications: Wherever allowed by local electrical codes; in buildings three stories or less; with plastic or metal boxes.
Comments: NM cable with plastic boxes is the least expensive cable system and the easiest to install. If you staple cable within 8 inches of a plastic box, you aren't required to use connectors. With metal boxes, use snap-in plastic connectors.
Also Available: Water-resistant (type NMC) cable for laundry rooms and basements where moisture may be present; waterproof (type UF--underground feeder) cable for outdoor burial, if permitted.
Caution: Screws and nails driven in framing can penetrate NM cable. Hammer nail plates over a cable whenever it lies within 11/4 inches from the edge of the framing.

Number of Coats (of paint) -  When you select the number of coats, include one for primer if you intend to use it. When you check the Unpainted Walls box, the program assumes that you will use primer on the first coat and cover only 250 sq. ft. per gallon.

Nut Driver - Purpose: Tightening and loosening small nuts and bolts.
Comments: Despite the name, you'll probably find that you drive more bolts and screws with this tool. If you're working with a lot of no-hub couplers in a tight space, get a 5/16-inch nut driver-even though a screwdriver or adjustable wrench will also work. Since the nut driver doesn't slip off the bolt, it can save you time, frustration and skinned knuckles.

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O-Rings - Purpose: Seals valve parts
Comments: It's tough to determine O-ring sizes, so always take the old one with you when you go to the store. Removal tools, called O-ring picks, are available, but you can use the blade of a pocket knife if you're careful.
The Pros Say: When you replace O-rings, coat them slightly with plumber's grease. They will slip on better, and the lubricant helps them last longer.

Octagonal Lighting Box

Other Names: O-Box or Four-O box.
Purpose: Mounting interior lights, wired with non-metallic cable or armored cable.
Typical Applications: Ceilings with exposed wood joists.

Off-Grade Decks - Decks that stand 30 inches or more off the ground.

Offset Driver - Other Names: Wiggly Driver, Speed Driver.
When to Use: Great for tightening device-mounting screws.
Comments: This is the poor man's cordless driver for making up electrical boxes. Sold in electrical supply houses, not in most hardware stores.

Offset Hanger Bar -  This device enables you to flush-mount an electrical box in a plaster-and-lath ceiling. You remove a strip of lath between two joists and screw the ends of the bar to the joists. Fasten the box to the center of the bar. It is offset to accommodate the thickness of the box.

Oil-Based Paints -  Old linseed oil paints (the original "oil" paint) are largely obsolete. Now these paints are mostly made with alkyd and other synthetic resins. Nevertheless, the terms are used interchangeably throughout the trade.

Old Work Device Boxes - Other Names: Remodel Box, Cut-In Box.
Purpose: Mounting switches and receptacles with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications: Adding switches or receptacles in finished walls.
Also Available: Two-gang boxes add a pair of devices to a finished wall.

Old Work Lighting Boxes - Other Names: Remodel box, cut-in box.
Purpose: Mounting interior lights with non-metallic cable.
Typical Applications: Adding lights in finished ceilings.
What to Look for: Make sure the metal flange holds the box securely against the drywall or plaster.
Comments: For heavy light fixtures, install wood blocking between the joists to hold the weight, or use a fan support brace.

On Center - As measured from the center of the post (rather than the distance between sides).

Open Time - The working time after an adhesive has been applied, but before the pieces must be assembled.

Organic Matter -  Decomposed plant or animal matter that supplies nutrients to plants. Good sources include homemade compost, nitrogen-fortified sawdust, aged steer manure, sphagnum peat moss and leaf mold.

Outlet -  Any point in a circuit where power is consumed or controlled. Receptacles, light fixtures and switches are installed at these outlets.

Overflow Tube -  Prevents the toilet tank from overflowing. The overflow tube drains into the toilet bowl so that if the fill valve sticks open, your bathroom doesn't wind up looking like a flood plain in springtime.

Overload -  When a circuit is carrying more amperage than it was designed to handle, wires heat up, blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker.

P-Q

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Packing Nut -  Large, often decorative, nut located directly beneath the handle of a faucet. It caps the faucet valve and compresses the packing washer against the valve stem to create a watertight assembly.

Pancake Lighting Box - Purpose: Mounting light fixtures.
Typical Applications: When you retrofit wiring lights in a plaster ceiling, it's often easier to mount a pancake box on top of the lath than to cut the lath for a full-depth lighting box.
Comments: Use a 4-inch pancake with one 14-gauge cable, only. Three-inch diameter pancake boxes are not permitted by most localities because they don't have sufficient volume.

PAR-Lamps -  A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp has a heavy glass lens that focuses the light. This makes it suitable for outdoor as well as indoor use. PAR-lamps come in both incandescent and halogen versions. As with R-lamps, the number indicates the wattage.

Parting Strip -  On a double-hung window, the wooden strip that separates the two sashes. Also called parting bead.

Path Lighting -  It doesn't take a lot of light to provide a welcoming glow and a measure of safety along your entry walk. This low-voltage, Malibu-style light spikes into the ground for easy installation. The system is often sold as a kit that includes a transformer, a half-dozen or so lights and connecting wires.

Pavers -  Flat masonry units resembling thick tiles, used for paving.

Peeler Core -  The cylindrical remainder of a log that has been turned on a giant lathe to "peel" plywood veneer. Often sold at landscape-supply centers.

Peeling and Blistering -  Peeling results from moisture in the wood trying to escape. Moisture comes through walls that do not have a proper vapor barrier. In new homes, the moisture may come from improperly dried framing or siding. Siding painted too soon after a rainfall is also subject to peeling and blistering.
Solution: Remove the finish to bare wood, and allow the siding to dry. Prime and paint.

   Blisters are often caused when paint is applied in direct sunlight. They form when the solvent tries to evaporate through a dried film. Water-reducible paints can also trap moisture before they dry. If, however, bare wood shows underneath the blisters, the problem is likely due to moisture. (See peeling, above.)
Solution: Scrape off blisters, sand, prime and paint.

Peephole Clamps -  A peephole clamp secures armored cable to electrical boxes. Each clamp has an opening so an electrical inspector can verify that you've installed an anti-short bushing at every connection.

Penetrating Oil -  Lubricant that helps dissolve rust. Common brands are WD-40 and Liquid Wrench.

pH -  A measure of acidity or alkalinity, on a scale of 0 (highly acid) to 14 (highly alkaline). Soil pH affects how well plants absorb nutrients. At the wrong pH, nutrients may be there but plants can't use them. Most plants do best within a pH range of 5.5 to 7.5; for many, a pH of 6.5 is ideal.

Phone Wire -  You only need one 24- or 26-gauge wire for each phone, but you may as well run two or four pairs for later use. You may want to add a second line for phone, fax or modem. The same wires can handle computer networks, thermostats and other low-voltage signals.

Photoelectric Detectors -  Photoelectric units have a beam of light aimed at a photocell. Smoke blocks the light, which triggers the alarm. Photoelectric smoke detectors respond well to slow-burning, smoldering fires in furniture, bedding and draperies. Most photoelectric units require 120 volts AC.
   Dirty, high-pollution or high-particle environments-such as a kitchen, workshop or garage-can coat the photocell and trigger a false alarm. Dust particles from ink jet printers can also block the beam. Install photoelectric detectors away from heating and air conditioning vents.

Photoelectric Switch - Other Names: Electric eye.
Purpose: Turns light on at dusk, turns it off at dawn.
Typical Applications: Porch lights.
Comments: Heavily shaded locations trick these switches into staying on too long. Look for sensitivity adjustments and models that allow you to point their eyes to the light.

Pigtail -  Short lengths of wire spliced with a wire connector.

Pilaster - A column of concrete or masonry used to reinforce intervening panels and prevent them from tipping.

Pipe Insulation - These slitted foam sleeves fit over your hot-water pipes to reduce radiant-heat loss from the walls of the tubing-and save money and energy. Other types include fiberglass insulation you wrap onto pipes, spiral-fashion, and tape in place.

Pipe Wrench - Other Names: Monkey Wrench
Purpose: Tightening and loosening threaded pipe connections.
Comments: Use pipe wrenches in pairs, one to hold and one to turn the pipe or fitting.
What to Look for: The teeth on cheaper wrenches are often less sharp when new and wear out faster. Consider a lighter, aluminum handled version if you're buying a wrench longer than 12 inches.

Pipe-Joint Compound - Other Names: Pipe Dope
Purpose: Sealing pipe threads.
Comments: Brush this sticky paste on the male threads before you connect fittings in galvanized-steel and black-iron pipe system-or use Teflon pipe tape. Both work fine, although some plumbers consider joint compound to be the more professional solution. Compound is your only choice when you can't reach the male fitting in a joint-as sometimes happens inside walls.

Plaster Ears - Other Names: Mouse traps, box supports.
Purpose: Holds a retrofit box in drywall or plaster wall.
Typical Applications: When adding a box in a finished wall.
Comments: Slip the long edge of the metal plate behind the lath or drywall, along either side of the box. Bend the short tabs into the box to clamp it against the back of the wall.
Disadvantages: Ears are difficult to tighten effectively and may loosen over time. Use only for switches since they don't receive the same stress as receptacles.

Plaster Rings - Other Names: Mud Rings, Switch Rings.
Purpose: Adapts four-square boxes to two-gang or single-gang devices, left and right, or to light fixtures, center. Also used to bring the face of the box out flush to finished wall surface.
Typical Applications: Use when drywall is attached over old plaster walls or when tile is added. Also used to change from two devices to one, one to two, or to mount a light in a square box.
What to Look for: Made in 1/4- to 2-inch depths to match wall thickness.

Plastic Boxes -  Plastic boxes are less expensive than metal ones and easier to install, since you don't need cable clamps to connect properly stapled non-metallic cable to the box. Plastic boxes are actually more fire-resistant than metal boxes. They are UL-rated for two hours of protection against fire.

Plastic Pipe Cutter - Purpose: Making clean, quick cuts in PVC plastic pipe.
Comments: Use it for projects like sprinkler systems when you have to make a lot of cuts. Since it makes perfect 90-degree, burr-free cuts, it saves much time and aggravation compared to a saw and file.

Plat Map -  A legal document that shows the boundaries and easements of your property, as determined by a survey.

Plug Auger -  A bit that attaches to an electric drill to bore properly sized holes for plugs.

Plugs -  Small pieces of sod.

Plumber's Grease - Other Names: Valve grease
Purpose: Lubricates faucet stems and O-rings.
Comments: Never substitute petroleum jelly, it can harm rubber over time. Heat-resistant valve grease also helps seal stove valves.

Plumber's Tape - Other Names: Pipe Strap
Purpose: To make pipe support straps.
Comments: Cut the galvanized-steel strapping with tin snips. Copper and plastic versions of this perforated tape are available for use with those materials.

Plunger - Other Names: Force Cup, Plumber's Helper, Plumber's Friend
Purpose: Clearing obstructions from sink drains and toilets.
Comments: This familiar tool provides the classic, low-tech solution for stopped-up lines. The bulb-type, shown, has an extendible collar that makes a better seal in toilets and wide sink drains. For other drains, fold the collar up, and the tool works just like a conventional plunger. When it doesn't work, you'll need to move on to a closet auger, snake, or power auger.

Pneumatic -  Air-driven.

Points - Handsaws are measured in point sizes which correspond to teeth per inch. The higher the number, the finer (and slower) the cut.

Polarity -  Look closely at a new receptacle and you'll notice that its left and right slots are different sizes. The taller slot carries neutral current; the shorter one is hot. Plugs should be wired accordingly. If the wires are reversed, a polarized appliance could give you a shock.

Post Hole Auger -  Post hole diggers make neat, cylindrical holes in the soil for fence posts and footings. Hand-operated diggers have parallel wooden handles and a pair of curved blades.
   If you need to dig a lot of holes or deep footings below frost line, rent a gas-driven post hole auger, top. The engine is mounted between handles above a large spiral bit. A single person can operate a small auger. It takes two people to run the larger unit.

Pouring and Finishing Concrete -  After you pour concrete, the next step is to level and finish the surface before it dries. A careful finish is especially important for visible flatwork such as patios and sidewalks, less so for concrete that will be hidden under brick or stone. Follow these steps:

   Level the surface by drawing the edge of a straight board along the top of the forms in a back-and-forth sawing motion. This smoothes out the bumps and low spots.

   On concrete that will remain exposed, such as sidewalks or patios, you'll need to neaten the edges and guide the cracking that will occur as the concrete expands and contracts. First, butt and run a steel edging tool against the forms to round over the edges. Next, use a jointer at intervals to score the concrete with grooves.

   Use a wood float to further smooth the concrete after water has come to the surface and evaporated. Wood floats give a coarse finish good for traction on exterior surfaces. For a dense, hard, smooth surface, finish the concrete with a concrete trowel.

   Other surfaces include
    Broom finish
    Sand
    Rock salt
    Seeded aggregate

   Spray the surface with water and cover it with plastic sheeting to keep it damp. Remove the plastic after 3 days. After 5 days, the concrete has reached 90 percent of maximum hardness.

Power Line Carrier -  A remote-control device that sends and receives coded signals over household wiring. With PLCs you can control lights and appliances throughout the house.

Power Mixer -  A tilted drum with a motorized blade or spiral that mixes mortar. Run it for 3 to 5 minutes to thoroughly combine the materials. Longer mixing weakens mortar.       Compacting the base:  To prevent paved surfaces from settling and cracking later, you'll need to compact the soil and base beneath them before you build.
   First, moisten the graded soil-but not so it's soggy. Compact small areas with the end of a 4-by-4 or run a vibratory rammer over them. For large areas, use a vibratory plate or a vibratory roller.
   Also use these tools to compact a gravel base, except on pea gravel, which compacts naturally.
   If the project calls for a sand base, wet and screed the sand until it's perfectly flat and densely packed. For best results, screed it several times.

Pressure Gauge - Purpose: To measure water pressure in residential plumbing.
Comments: Threads on to a hose bibb by hand. This one costs less than $5.00.

Pressure-Treated Lumber -  Lumber that is impregnated under pressure with chemicals that inhibit the growth of mold and prevent rot. Pressure-treated lumber is particularly useful for situations where wood comes in contact with the ground or concrete, and for numerous outdoor building projects.

Pressure Washer - Other Names: Power washer.
Purpose: Pressure washers make quick work of light-duty cleaning tasks such as washing cars, decks, siding and driveways. They blast mildew off siding and decks to help restore the original color. They deep-clean exterior siding for repainting, and they scour mold from sidewalks, patios and walls.
When to Use: Gas-powered rental units, which operate at about 2,500 pounds per square inch, handle heavy-duty tasks such as paint removal. Homeowner's models, under 1,000 pounds per square inch, help with light-duty cleaning.

Programmable Timer Switch - Purpose: Turns lights on and off according to a programmable schedule.
Typical Applications: For security, to make it appear you're at home; for convenience, to turn on outdoor lighting before you come home. You can also rig up plug-in models to operate the TV and radio when you're away to create a lived-in illusion.

Pulling El -  A 90-degree conduit body. In building trade lingo, any right angle, elbow fitting is termed an "el."

Push Nuts - Purpose: Splices up to four solid wires.
Typical Applications: Connecting ground wires, or splicing hot wires or neutral wires inside a wiring box. DO NOT use push nuts to splice wires outside of boxes.
Comments: Use push nuts anywhere wire connectors are permitted. They cost a bit more, but you don't have to twist them on-your wrist will appreciate it. You can test for hot wires without removing push nuts. They have small holes in their ends to fit the probe of your voltage tester.

PVC Cement -  A clear, syrupy adhesive usually sold for joining white PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe.

PVC Pipe - Purpose: This familiar white plastic pipe is used mostly for irrigation systems. In large sizes, it's now widely accepted for DWV systems.
Comments: It's likely that your local code won't permit PVC plastic pipe for supply lines inside your house, although it may allow a related type, CPVC pipe. Like all plastic pipe, it's easy to cut and easy to join with special pipe cement.

Quartz Halide Floodlights -  One of several energy-efficient alternatives to standard incandescent lighting outside your home. The fixtures do cost more initially (and replacement lamps do too), but if you want to provide a lot of bright light for many hours each night, these will save you money in the long run. 300- and 500-watt lamps are commonly sold as work lights. Mount them on weatherproof wiring boxes with standard 1/2-inch threaded holes.

Quick-Connect Plugs -  Light-duty replacement plugs. To install, snip off the old plug and insert the old cord into the new plug, according to package directions. Prongs inside the plug pierce the insulation when you close the plug (or a lever on top of it) eliminating any need to strip the wires.

R

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R-Lamps -  The R stands for reflector, an interior coating of aluminum that reflects light to the front of the bulb. Some fixtures, notably recessed types, trap light inside. Reflector lamps reduce this loss by projecting light out of the fixture and into the room. In these fixtures, a 50-watt R-lamp provides equivalent lighting and uses less energy than a 100-watt standard incandescent bulb. The number after the R is the bulb's wattage.

Rabbet -  A rectangular groove in the edge of the sash.

Radiant Heat -  Electromagnetic waves traveling in straight lines.

Rafters -  Rafters are the roof-framing members that provide support for sheathing and roofing.

Rebar -  Short for "reinforcing bar". This steel bar is embedded in concrete and masonry to strengthen it. Sold in 20-foot lengths and in various diameters.

Rebar Bender -  A rebar also has a built-in bender. With the handle up, lay the rebar between three heavy-duty pins on the bender's head, then push down the handle to bend the rebar. You can bend to any angle up to 90 degrees.

Receptacle Cover - This cover fits standard duplex receptacles. These covers are also used to finish stack switches and switch/receptacle combinations.

Receptacle Tester

Other Names: Polarity Tester.
Purpose: Tests three-hole 120-volt receptacles for power, polarity and grounding.
When to Use: After you've turned on the power to new receptacles or whenever you want to inspect an existing installation.
Also Available: A similar tester works on receptacles only.

Receptacles -  Commonly referred to as plugs, outlets or sockets. Standard household receptacles come in white, ivory and brown. Decorator lines have more colors. For heavy-duty appliances, get a receptacle rated for the proper amperage.

Recessed Lighting -  These unobtrusive lights cost between $15 and $35 for the basic can. Each requires some sort of decorative trim ring. Some models include the ring. If you want to use compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) in a recessed light, be sure to get a model designed for it. CFLs require a different reflector to push their light down efficiently. With incandescent models, use reflector spots or floods.

Reciprocating Saw - Other Names: Sawzall.
Purpose: Rough-cutting wood and metal.
When to Use: This tool is indispensable for remodeling. It's great for cutting notches for pipe or cable and openings in existing walls when nothing else seems to fit.
What to Look for: Though you probably won't have much choice at a rental yard, try to get a saw that lets you mount the blade with the teeth up or down. This feature may make a difference in a tight spot. A variable-speed switch offers more control when cutting.
Comments: The replaceable blades you'll need will probably cost less at a hardware store or home center than at the rental yard. Choose bi-metal blades for maximum wear.

Reducers: Bells and Bushings - Purpose: Transitions between different diameters of pipe
Examples include:
No-hub mission coupling, to join dissimilar cast-iron pipe sizes.
PVC bushing to join 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch pipes.
ABS reduction wye, fitted with a 4-by 2-inch bushing.
Copper reducing tee.
Threaded Reduction fittings: bell reducer, has female threads for two unlike nipples; bushing has male thread for a large fitting and female thread for a smaller nipple coming out.

Resistance -  All materials, including wires, hamper the flow of electricity to some extent, converting some of the energy in the current to heat.

Resistant to Heavy Wear -  For surfaces subjected to heavy wear such as floors, furniture, countertops and other surfaces that are subject to heavy use.

Resistant to Scrubbing -  Paints able to withstand abrasion and household cleansers and detergents.

Right-Angle Clamp -  Right-angle clamps exit a wiring box at 90 degrees. Use these when you don't have room to bend armored cable into place.

Right-Angle Drill - Purpose: Drilling holes in tight places.
When to Use: Great for drilling cable pathways between studs and joists.
What to Look for: Be sure the drill you rent includes a chuck key and a wrench for adjusting the right angle head. An adjustable side-handle should be included, too.
Comments: You might be able to drill all your cable paths with a 3/8-inch VSR drill, but a right-angle drill has far more power and can get into tight spots with ease. Rent it if you have lots of drilling to do and can organize your work to get it all done in one day.

Rigid Metal Conduit - Purpose: Use for outdoor wiring that may be exposed to damage (lawnmowers and cars are two common hazards).
Typical Applications: In trenches shallower than 18 inches, or as the first length of conduit leading into plastic conduit in a trench.
Comments: Rigid uses two kinds of connectors: threaded and threadless compression fittings. Threaded connections are similar to threaded plumbing pipe. You have to either plan carefully and use only ready-made parts or rent cutting and threading tools to make custom lengths. Threadless compression fittings slip over cut pipe and form a waterproof seal when tightened. Use pre-bent 45-degree and 90-degree sections to change direction.

Rigid Plastic Conduit - Purpose: Underground wiring.
Typical Applications: Outdoor lighting, buried service to outbuildings.
What to Look for: Do not confuse this with white PVC plumbing pipe. Use Schedule 40 pipe for residential work. Schedule 80 is thicker and may be required for commercial applications. Use an approved glue for the non-threaded connections.
Comments: Because it's far more flexible than rigid metal conduit, and easier to cut and join, plastic is much easier to install. The parts are less expensive, too. Cut plastic conduit with a hacksaw and attach couplings and fittings with glue.
   Do not bury plastic less than 18 inches deep. Use a pre-bent 90-degree section of rigid metal conduit above ground to reach the bottom of the trench, then use an adapter fitting to the rigid plastic. Requires a ground wire in the conduit.

Ring Latch - A latch you open by pivoting a ring off the end of a horizontal bar.

Ring-Shanked Nail -  A nail with raised edges along its shank--like threads in a screw--that make it hard to pull out.

Ripping -  Cutting in line with wood grain; to rip a board is to cut along its length.

Rise -  The vertical distance from the bottom to the top of a slope or step.

Riser -  The vertical part of a step.

Rock Salt - Rock salt is lightly and evenly broadcast, then troweled into a surface. The salt dissolves after the surface is lightly washed and leaves pocks or voids in the surface.

Roller -  A metal or plastic drum you fill with water and roll over the lawn to tamp down soil or newly planted grass.

Roll Size -  Wallpaper is sold in two sizes: American rolls cover 36 sq. ft., European rolls cover 28 sq. ft.

Roof Sheathing -  Finish roofing materials are applied on top of roof sheathing, which serves to provide a flat, sound nailing base. Sheathing also strengthens your roof's structure. Common sheathing materials include plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), wood shingles, and 1-by-6's.

Roofing Felt -  Also called "underlayment," roofing felt is a thick, black, asphalt-impregnated, paper-like material. On your roof it provides an additional rain barrier. It is impervious enough to block out and shed rain but also porous enough to allow moisture and condensation to escape from your attic.

Rubber mallet -  A mallet with a rubber or plastic head, used to tap stones or masonry into place without chipping them.

Run -  The horizontal distance covered by a slope.

Runoff -  Rainwater or snow melt that runs over the ground instead of soaking in. It runs off because the ground is too steep, too hard, or too saturated with water.

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